The Gendered Politics of Leather
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Background Information
Leather can be defined as the hairless, skin of an animal that has gone through several processes in order to prevent decay and provide a material suitable for a variety of uses.
Skins???
Most leather good originate from cattle that are raised for their meat, as well as worn our dairy cows and veal calves. These animals (as well as others soon to be mentioned) endure cruel, solitary confinement, overcrowding, lack of food & water, as well as weather extremes prior to their slaughter or stunning.
“Stunning” refers to the process of inducing the death of an animal by use of an electric current or metal rod applied through the animal’s brain.
While most commonly, leather comes from the skins of pigs and various species of cattle, skins used for leather products also come from a variety of other animals such as kangaroos, seals, frogs, eels, and deer just to name a few.
http://www.peta.org/whoseskin/index.asp
Preparation
Trimming and Cleaning: Received animal skins are sorted by size, weight, and thickness. The skins are stripped of all proteins in order to stop bacteria growth. Special chemicals are then sprayed on the skin to remove any excess hair. The skins are then pickled in salt & sulfuric acid to remove these chemicals.
Vegetable tanning involves soaking the skin in strong tannic acid for several weeks.
Mineral tanning involves rapid, agitated motions of the skin in drums filled with salt and aluminum.
Oil tanning involves spraying fish oil onto the skins, and then letting them rest in drums filled with coloring chemicals for several hours.
Wash/Dry: Skins are then thoroughly washed. A band knife cuts all of the skins to a uniform thickness. The skins then pass through a conveyor of drying tunnels, and finally, drying cabinets.
Manufacturing
Design: Designers are hired to create different patterns according to the garment being produced. Computers are used to grade these designs in accordance with government accepted anthropometric tables: body height and weight.
Cutting: Skins move through special cutting tables known as spreaders. Machines cut over the spreaders, one layer at a time. These machines are either automatic, or guided by laborers. The approved pattern is then either pinned or drawn with chalk onto the skin.
Sewing: Today, most leather manufacturing is highly, technologically sophisticated, consisting of highly efficient automated sewing machines working in an “assembly-line” fashion. The highest grades of leather goods however, are still hand-sewn, “step-by-step”.
Laborers
The labor involved in leather manufacturing is both a highly skilled and specialized trade. In recent times, many aspects of the leather trade have been turned over to automated machinery, while the highest quality leather manufacturers still use direct-hand labor. Much of the world’s leather goods are manufactured in the middle east (most notably Pakistan and India) and China. Our research has shown that much of the world’s leather factory workers are male.
Profiteers
The leather industry is extremely broad and diverse, as leather is essential in a vast variety of uses. There are thousands of leather manufacturer’s world-wide- We have selected one specific company to highlight.
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10 Things Every Consumer Should Know:
1.) The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention found a much higher incidence of leukemia and cancer rates in populations of tannery workers and citizens residing near tanneries.
2.) One PETA investigation found that some slaughter houses break the tails of their cows while they are conscious. Cows also have tobacco and chili powder rubbed into their eyes. This forces the cattle to stay conscious and mobile if they were to collapse en-route to the slaughter house, usually the result of exhaustion.
3.) Captive Bolt Stunning involves using a “gun” to shoot a metal rod through the brain of the animal. Often times these rods miss, creating a slow and excruciating death for the animal.
4.) Leather products also come from the skins of; horses, lambs, sheep, zebras, bison, boars, kangaroos, dolphins, turtles, and snakes.
5.) Ahimsa Leather is a nearly identical alternative to traditional leather. This leather is produced from animals that have died due to old age or natural causes.
6.) Animal skins/leather are the most economically significant byproduct of the meat packing industry. Meat packing alone generates several billion dollars a year.
7.) There are an estimated 2 million dogs and cats that are slaughtered in china every year to meet growing demands for animal hides.
8.) In some cases, goats are boiled alive to be used for what are to be considered “luxurious” leather items such as gloves.
9.) As the result of extremely confined spaces, pigs are denied proper exercise and become so weak that they can hardly move themselves several yards. Workers slam metal hooks into their mouths, rectums, and eyes just to keep get them onto transportation trucks.
10.) According to a Cornell University expert, at the current rate fossil fuels are being exhausted through the meat and leather industry, our planet’s supply will be completely used up within a decade.
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Leather and Gender Unlike many other fashion items discussed in this class, labor in the leather industry is not necessarily a source of concern. Our research has shown (contradictory to other fashion items) that females are not oppressed in the leather industry, but rather non-existent. According to Leather International Magazine, of the last 22 major appointments, including CEO’s, managers, board directors/members etc. in various leather companies across the globe, 21 (95%) were men. The leather industry is vastly dominated by men, both at the corporate and direct-labor level.
But…how do these men market their item???
In short, we found that the male dominated leather industry capitalizes on the feminine mystique to sell their products. Leather garments are marketed in a highly feminized context, using “eye-candy” as a method to produce profitable returns for the predominantly male-owned corporations.
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Word on the Street…
Ignorance!!!
We conducted three separate interviews with people who either wear, or do not wear leather. We used open-ended questions to gauge our participants’ views on leather. The most prevalent theme we found was Ignorance in regards to the industry.
Female-20: This particular participant was a self-proclaimed humanitarian and vegan; however she claimed to own many leather products including belts, boots, and handbags. She expressed that she is highly opposed to animal cruelty and assumed that her leather goods came from animals that had died from natural causes. She also expressed that when looking for a “fashionable” item, where it comes from and how it is made is not something that she considers. After briefing her on the topic after the initial interview, she explained that she will consider looking into leather alternatives.
Male-27: This participant also described himself as a vegetarian; a result of a specific incident he witnessed at 13. This participant also expressed the notion that he simply did not think about where his garments came from. As he got older, he began to do research with regards to his leather goods, and slowly became more conscious of the flaws within the leather industry. He slowly began weeding out his leather goods (money clips vs. leather wallets). He explained that “animal-friendly” goods are more expensive and harder to find, but also that the pros to purchasing these goods outweigh the cons. This particular participant also demonstrated an accurate understanding of the hazards the leather industry creates and noted that he attempts explain these hazards to unaware individuals that he comes in contact with.
Female-19: This young, female participant stated that she owned at least 10 fashion items containing or made completely of leather. She expressed that she uses/wears leather because it is “fashionable, stylish, and comfortable”. Reflecting the overriding theme found in our interviews, this participant explained that she is completely unaware of the cruel processes involved in leather manufacturing. As with our first participant, this female expressed that she doesn’t take into consideration where her leather products come from and overall, is not concerned with the controversial issues surrounding the leather industry.
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Sources http://www.madehow.com/Volume-2/Leather-Jacket.html http://www.wisegeek.com/how-is-leather-made.htm http://www.idausa.org/facts/leatherfacts.html http://www.copperwiki.org/index.php/Leather http://www.cowsarecool.com/theFacts.asp http://www.peta2.com/TAKECHARGE/t_factsheet_leather.asp http://www.diamondleathers.com/information.php?info_id=7 http://www.lostworldsinc.com/Motorcycle_Leather_Jackets_Americana.htm http://www.qualityp.com.pk/factory_tour.htm
http://www.amersports.com/media/reports/interim_reports/
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What You Can Do
Choose alternatives to leather!!!
-There are many alternatives to leather that provide the same look and durability as leather, including Hemp, Vegetan, Microfiber, Jute, and Plastic
-Ahimsa leather can provide you with leather goods that comes from animals who have dies from natural causes
-Some major corporations, such as NIKE are using a new material known as Chlorenol. This is a breathable, stretchable, and supportive material that can replace leather, especially in the manufacturing of athletic footwear.
-Many major designers including Steve Madden and Liz Claiborne are now offering a large variety of non-leather goods
-You can call 1-800-344-NIKE for a complete list of vegan fashions offered by NIKE
-Browse PETA’s shopping guide by visiting cowsarecool.com
-Visit veganstore.com, veganessentials.com, or mooshoes.com for non-leather, fashionable goods |